Driving with Benjamin

According to Lonely Planet Tbilisi has around 1.7 million inhabitants but I wonder how many drive taxis. There's thousands. Traffic jams aren't so bad however driving Tbilisi style rivals formula one. I've caught about 6 taxis today starting off with "Captain" Benjamin from the airport. You know the scene. You walk out of the terminal and the hungry wolves are there waiting to pounce on the bewildered new arrivals. Inside the terminal I had struck up a conversation with a fellow Australian in the visa queue (I know - typical Aussies some would say). Arnold from Melbourne said he was going to see what his mate was up to working for BP in Georgia and a driver of the BP corporation would take him to a hotel. Naturally I asked if I could get a lift into town. Sure, no worries came the reply. Outside the terminal though no BP driver was in sight. What confronted us was a motely crew of unshaven cabbies.

Having confidently turned down all offers we found ourselves in a little bit of a stand off. They were watching us and we were watching them. Finally the BP driver showed up but refused to give me a lift because I wasn't on his official list (thanks BP). So instead I found myself as the last passenger left without a ride.

Their look said it all. They knew they had me. The price of 20 bucks to my hotel just could not be brought down. So, defeated, off I set with The Captain. Along the way The Captain was kind enough to point out sites of historical interest and made the sign of the cross anytime we passed a church or a statue of King Gorgasali - the father of Georgia. On our little mini tour of Tbilisi, it was quite obvious that Benjamin was winging it to my hotel. He had no idea. We pulled over several times to check directions. Each time involved him the turning the car off, finding someone to ask and then fiddling with a bunch of wires under the steering column to hot-wire the car back to life. Was it worth 20 bucks? For the antics and tour... not really great value, but The Captain was the first Georgian I met and I am here in Tbilisi.

To see the video of The Captain in action go to the AV Storage link on the right hand side of the page. You'll need QuickTime to view.

Just enough brain power tonight to give a run down on the rest of the day. My hotel room overlooks Kostavas Kucha which later joins up Rustavelis - so I'm right in the thick of it. I spent the afternoon chasing up leads and meeting some very interesting people. Two of whom stand out. Akaki Gogichaishvili is an investigative journalist on Rustavi 2 Televison's 60 Minutes. A programme noted for exposing corruption during the Shevardnadze era but surprisingly is currently off air - more on that later. And also Ana Dolidze, Chairperson of the Young Georgian Lawyers Association. I hope to ask her soon about Georgia's legal system and fighting corruption.

Tomorrow will see me at an international forum to mark the second anniversary of the Rose Revolution.

ghame mshvidobisa good night